Monday, TSS Earnslaw – this lady of the lake is the icon of Queenstown and is now in her hundredth year of service (launched at the same time as the Titantic but fared rather better). She sails across Lake Wakatipu to Walter Peak Sheep Station several times a day and has been the lifeline to this remote place for a century. Powered by two triple expansion coal-fired steam engines she is still manually fuelled by two stokers. At the station there is a farm tour and a sheep herding/shearing demonstration that is most entertaining; a surprisingly enjoyable day out, sedate and relaxed.
Tuesday, Dart River Jet Boat – At Glenorchy the glacier fed Dart River flows into Lake Wakatipu. Known as Arcadia (paradise in Greek) the mountains, meadows and rivers of this region provide income through tourism and farming but the largest revenue is derived from nature’s vast and majestic backdrop for television and movie production. Amongst the many films made here are The Chronicles of Narnia, Lord of the Rings, and the Hobbit (coming soon) – all are make believe. It is also the site of many commercials; Renault cars (French), Lindt Chocolate (Swiss) and Coors Beer (American) – also make believe!
However, we were here for jet boating and for the first hour we went up the braided river system climbing 200 meters in total and you could actually feel and see the incline. In some cases we were in only a few inches of water, the clearly visible gravel beneath flying by. After reaching the limit of the permitted access to the national park we turned around. The real fun started here shooting down river at 85 kph passing within inches of massive rocks interspersed with the odd 360 degree spin. Our driver, Mike, races jet boats and his skills were clearly evident! The guided walk through the Beech Forest immediately following, together with the picturesque backroad drive through beautiful meadows to base was equally inspiring in a different way.
Wednesday, Doubtful Sound – Originally named Doubtful Harbour by Captain Cook when he sailed past on the Endeavour in 1770, he skirted past the entrance wondering whether there would be sufficient wind to manoeuvre the vessel back out due to the prevailing westerly wind, so he carried on to Australia.
Our day began with a boat trip across Lake Manapouri and a coach ride over Wilmot Pass to Deep Cove. This awaited us at the top of the pass!
We cruised through the fiord on the Patea Explorer to the Tasman Sea, there are only a handful of days a year where sea conditions permit exit to the ocean and this was one of them. The water was flat calm, we followed Fiordland Crested Penquins and a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins before reaching the sea where approximately 200 Albatrosses had gathered, our guide remarked that it was the largest number they had ever seen at one time. Rounding the Nee Islets we could see hundreds of sealions basking in the sun.
On the return journey we cruised into the Hall Arm, with the steepest mountains on either side. Beneath Mt. Crowfoot the engines and generators were switched off and for three minutes nobody moved or spoke and the only noise breaking the silence was that of distant waterfalls. The Fiordland National Park averages 6 meters of annual rainfall, for the past three days we have barely seen a cloud. There is so much more we could say about this remarkable place but come and see for yourselves! Astonishing and mesmerising.
To summarise: three completely different experiences on three very different types of craft, one lake, one river, one ocean. They had only two things in common, unparalleled scenery and clear blue skies. We are fortunate indeed!
No comments:
Post a Comment