Saturday, April 23, 2016

Portugal

Our last blog in November promised something new but at that time we didn't know exactly what it would look like, only that we had bought a restaurant which was under renovation. You can see it on www.leboissauvage.ch
Opening day was December 20th, 2105 the beginning of peak season and to say that our daughter Ashley and her partner Darren went in at the deep end is an understatement. It was busy from day one, which necessitated us to go back to work in a number of capacities: dishwashing, waiter, laundry lady, chauffeur and handyman. Astra was also in Switzerland for a while and she too was drafted in to serve tables and help in the bar. It was great fun to lend a hand and be involved but by the end of February a break was needed.
After a few days of golf in the Algarve with some English mates I met Clare in Lisbon and we stayed in Oitavos, Cascais on the Atlantic coast, visiting the palaces of Sintra before driving north for some wine tasting in the Upper Douro. The Douro River flows through some very steep valleys which over the centuries have been terraced to create a dramatic landscape of vineyards not dissimilar to those of the Valais in Switzerland. Summer temperatures can exceed 40 degrees producing rich grapes which have traditionally been used to make Port Wine but more recently the winemakers have started to produce excellent wines in the traditional way. The Sandeman Quinta (estate):


For centuries the port barrels were loaded onto sailboats to be transported to the warehouses at Gaia opposite Porto. The complete history of this trade is beautifully illustrated in tile on the walls of the train station at Pinhoa, the major town for the shipment of the barrels.


We had lunch and toured the estate of Dirk Niepoort, one of the world's most recognised winemakers.  Next we drove down river to Porto where we took a river tour, visited the port caves and walked the central area. The colourful medieval Ribeira district of Porto:



The next stage of this venture took us into Northwest Spain where we spent one night in the sprawling city of Vigo before heading for Santiago de Compostela. This ancient city has been the final destination for pilgrims for centuries and in modern times approximately 200,000 people a year make the journey and if they complete at least the final 100 kilometres on foot or horseback they receive the Compostela Certificate at the cathedral. Unfortunately the magnificent cathedral facade was partially covered in scaffolding but we were fortunate to have booked in to the Parador Hotel Reyes immediately next door. Originally a hospital for pilgrims since 1499 it considers itself to be the world's oldest hotel. It is a truly beautiful building inside and out with a stunning vaulted ceiling dining room and this beautifully carved entrance.


We thought we were finished as we headed back to Lisbon but the baroque city of Braga was not far off our route so we stopped there for a few hours. Described by some travel writers as "one of the best cities in Europe that you've never heard of" is an accurate assessment. There is much interesting architecture on either side of wide boulevards with beautiful gardens and just outside the city the cathedral complex of Bom Jesus do Monte with its extraordinary staircase provides magnificent views over the city, which is a gem not to be missed.


Our final day was in Lisbon where we took a tram tour and did a lot of walking before the flight to Geneva. I should mention that Clare's route was from Geneva to London Gatwick to Lisbon and back to Geneva, 3 flights for a grand total of $110.00, thank God for low cost airlines!

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