Our entry into Costa Rica overland was reminiscent of our travels to South America in 1975. Arriving at the Nicaraguan border we exited the bus for a full security check of person and luggage. The bus then drove off, one regular traveler on the route said it was for arms and drug checks or maybe the driver went for lunch, but we stood on the tarmac for an hour. Upon return a lot more passengers got on than had originally come with us, we reloaded and drove 300 meters to Costa Rica where we got off again, took our luggage through security and immigration and got back on.
Initially there wasn't much difference as trash and plastic lined the road but as we approached Liberia one could start to see that Costa Rica has a better infrastructure and is generally more modern.
Customs Chaos
Our rental car was waiting at the first stop and we proceeded on to Playa Junquillal to visit a very old Bermuda friend who has been there for 26 years. He's well known, even has a street named after him:
Calle Perro Loco (Mad Dog Road). We stayed in a very nice condo development Villas Las Ventanas which was beautifully planted and amazingly green because the rest of Guanacaste Province has been in drought for 3 years, even major hotels have water shortages as can be seen on the golf course of Hacienda Pinilla.
This area still has dirt roads and is undeveloped, it is a beach bum, surfer hangout. Some people go there for its simplicity but it's not a place we would stay too long. It will be much better when the rains come.
From here we started the drive east to the town of Bijagua between the Miravalles and Tenorio volcanoes, all part of the Agua y Paz Biosphere Reserve. The countryside was very green, agricultural with cattle and horses.
Bird watching is a feature of Tenorio Lodge and they boast having photographed over 150 varieties on the property. Tanagers, Flycatchers and Hummingbirds were the predominant species, it was also our first sighting of Howler Monkeys.
The following day we drove 10 kilometres up the most appalling road to hike to the Celeste Waterfall and the confluence of two clear rivers which when they meet, due to the mixing and enlarging of particles and the prism effect of the light, turns the water of the Rio Celeste blue.
We took a 'shortcut' over to Lake Arenal, as the crow flies it is the most direct but most of it is a dirt and gravel track. We're never in a hurry and this drive felt like we were really out in the country. Eventually we came to the north side of the lake, a very pleasant drive. The Arenal Volcano appears in the distance and as it gets closer you can see that it is probably the most perfect shape, or at least it conforms to the images one has of what it should be:
However, it is also the signal that we are approaching a very touristic area, the hand painted signs for activities, real estate brokers, cafes "voted best burger on the planet" and accommodation are too numerous to take in and there is a distinct California vibe; Love Shack 2km: Rock River Rocks:
and most bizarre of all, some Swiss chalets and a church!
Initially there wasn't much difference as trash and plastic lined the road but as we approached Liberia one could start to see that Costa Rica has a better infrastructure and is generally more modern.
Customs Chaos
Our rental car was waiting at the first stop and we proceeded on to Playa Junquillal to visit a very old Bermuda friend who has been there for 26 years. He's well known, even has a street named after him:
Calle Perro Loco (Mad Dog Road). We stayed in a very nice condo development Villas Las Ventanas which was beautifully planted and amazingly green because the rest of Guanacaste Province has been in drought for 3 years, even major hotels have water shortages as can be seen on the golf course of Hacienda Pinilla.
This area still has dirt roads and is undeveloped, it is a beach bum, surfer hangout. Some people go there for its simplicity but it's not a place we would stay too long. It will be much better when the rains come.
From here we started the drive east to the town of Bijagua between the Miravalles and Tenorio volcanoes, all part of the Agua y Paz Biosphere Reserve. The countryside was very green, agricultural with cattle and horses.
Bird watching is a feature of Tenorio Lodge and they boast having photographed over 150 varieties on the property. Tanagers, Flycatchers and Hummingbirds were the predominant species, it was also our first sighting of Howler Monkeys.
The following day we drove 10 kilometres up the most appalling road to hike to the Celeste Waterfall and the confluence of two clear rivers which when they meet, due to the mixing and enlarging of particles and the prism effect of the light, turns the water of the Rio Celeste blue.
We took a 'shortcut' over to Lake Arenal, as the crow flies it is the most direct but most of it is a dirt and gravel track. We're never in a hurry and this drive felt like we were really out in the country. Eventually we came to the north side of the lake, a very pleasant drive. The Arenal Volcano appears in the distance and as it gets closer you can see that it is probably the most perfect shape, or at least it conforms to the images one has of what it should be:
However, it is also the signal that we are approaching a very touristic area, the hand painted signs for activities, real estate brokers, cafes "voted best burger on the planet" and accommodation are too numerous to take in and there is a distinct California vibe; Love Shack 2km: Rock River Rocks:
and most bizarre of all, some Swiss chalets and a church!
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